IRELAND
Cliffs of Moher
Getting There
Being that this is a huge natural landmark, you’ll find that the Cliffs of Moher aren’t really close to anything. If you’re flying, Shannon has the closest airpirt. And boy is it small. No terminals. No trams. Like four baggage carousels. The most straightforward airport I’ve ever been to. But getting out is a breeze.
It will take you around an hour to drive to the cliffs, of which you’ll need if you’ve never driven on the left side. Best to get straight out of town and practice on the open road rather than in town where you might encounter problems, such as other cars, lol. If you’re flying into Dublin and renting a car, I pray you’ve been practicing.
If you have the free time, circle around north first and visit Poulnabrone, ancient cairns dating backs thousands of years. It’ll add about 20 minutes to your trip, and while it isn’t much to look at, the history is fascinating, there are a hell of a lot less tourists around, and the countryside is just adorable.
Parking
Easy peasy lemon squeezy. After an early morning at the airport and an hour relearning to drive, you might be a touch bit irritable, as I was. So imagine how thrilled I was when I came around the corner and spotted a parking lot with plenty of available spots. You’ll find a gal selling tickets for €10 (this was June ‘22 as I understand they have gone up to €12). A steal I thought. She meant per person. €10 per person to park! Ok, not that convenient. You can look for other places to park but remember you are literally at the edge of the continent. I sprung. The parking lot is right across the road from the entrance and sometimes you can’t beat convenience.
I parked toward the back and started layering because it was cold as hell. Of course, there was a dog. Of course, I had to pet the dog. Her name was Gemma. Her owner told me they come walking out at the Cliffs all the time, which leads me to this savory tip: the cliffs are totally pet friendly so long as they are leashed. They even have a water station near the Visitor’s Center.
Which brings me to the crowning glory, the VISITOR’S CENTER. America, you are now officially on notice. I don’t know what I was expecting, but it wasn’t that. The building is filled with tons of pictures and data, all of which I didn’t look at because I was irritable. But they had a huge bathroom with warm water in the sinks, amazing because no matter how mild the weather, your fingers will be cold as fuck. They had a great little concession stand with snacks and drinks. What I didn’t know at the time was that they offer complimentary binoculars and picnic blankets on loan.
The Views
The main walk takes you up to O’Briens Tower. It is situated on an elevated concrete pad and gives the best views of the cliffs from both directions. Unfortunately, it also is where the majority of visitors are.
The north cliff walk will take you all the way to Doolin village, where you can have a bite to eat or walk around the shops. This is rated as a moderately difficult walk and takes about two hours each direction. The entire loop is ~5 miles total. If you have the time and you’re not rushed, this walk is well worth the time.
The south cliff walk is significantly shorter and a hell of a sketchier. It takes about two hours roundtrip to Hags Head and back but much of the way is off the beaten path. If you’re an adrenaline junkie and want the freedom to get as close to the edge as possible, this is the one for you.
