IRELAND
Dingle Peninsula Drive
The Basics
There are a lot of “drives” when one is talking about Ireland. That’s because that’s pretty much all you do when you’re in Ireland. You might think of Belfast or Dublin and envision sprawling cities packed full of people, but I can’t tell you I probably saw more sheep than people the entire time I was there.
The most immersive drive is the Wild Atlantic Way and it sprawls a whopping 1,600 miles from Shannon to Donegal. If you’ve got nothing but time, and slow living is your speed, this trek usually requires a two week commitment. I have neither time nor the ability to slow down.
So I poured over the details between the Ring of Kerry and Slea Head Drive on the Dingle Peninsula, and ended up going with Dingle. At only 33 miles, it only takes about three hours to complete and is absolutely breathtaking.
Here are some important facts I didn’t know before I went:
Your phone is spotty at best. So while you may have pinned the things you want to see, your map will no longer be tracking your location.
Drive clockwise from Dingle. Just trust me.
Slea Head Drive is a section of the larger Dingle Peninsula Drive.
LEAVE EARLY. There’s no such thing as too early. I left around 7 or 8 in the morning and only came across two or three other cars.
The Route
Having completed this loop, I would remiss if I didn’t tell you I wish I’d done the longer Dingle Peninsula Drive. While I didn’t want some incredibly long and drawn out day in the car, this one was definitely shorter than I imagined. And aside from the absolutely stunning views of crystal clear blue for miles, there’s a lot less to see than people advertise on their blogs.
Not to be insensitive to Ireland’s past, but some of the things on the loop that people won’t shut up about aren’t actually…all that great. I’ll go into greater detail below, but know that you’re passing on a chance to see Inch Beach and an outstanding view from Conor Pass if you choose to just do Slea Head.
Dingle Town
Cute AF.
This little town was everything I envisioned. This is where your journey officially begins, but if you have the time, make sure you carve a couple hours out for sightseeing. It’s tiny so it’s easy to get around on foot.
Of course, Murphy’s ice cream shop is there. There are tons of little authentic Irish pubs to check out with some mean kitchens. If you can’t decide which, there’s a curated foodie walk that is awesome. There’s also a Sheehy’s fish ‘n chips truck parked just off the main drag. I’ll have you know it was the best fish I’ve ever had, hands down.
Random pull-outs
There’s a bunch. Unlike a lot of other roadtrips that I’ve been on where you have to plan each and every stop, like the Road to Hana, this one is not that serious. Chances are there won’t be a million people on the road so you won’t have to worry about getting in someone’s way. If you see a pull-out, stop. Get out. Awe at the scenery. Get back in and drive.
The Cross
This is nothing more than a glorified mile marker. I know everyone goes nuts about it, but it’s really just a divider between two parishes. More importantly, it marks the point where you’re entering the Blasket Islands and Dunmore Head region.
Caife na Tra
This is where the sights really come alive. After you pass Jesus, you’re now driving through a pristine little Irish town with patchwork fields as far as you can see. This is when I wanted to stop at Caife na Tra. It overlooks the water and is supposed to be an ideal spot to stop about halfway. But in true Irish fashion, they’re only open for a few hours in the afternoon and on that fateful day, they weren’t open at all.
Keep driving. Once you’re almost to the peninsula, hang a left into the car park. Parking is free and there should be no one there if you’ve left early enough.
Coumeenoole Beach
I almost missed this beauty in my race up the hill to Dunmore Head. If the parking lot is empty, you’ll most likely want to park at the end so you don’t have to walk that far back. However, the car park is set back from the cliff a ways and had I not been walking out to see what someone else was doing, would have missed this spot altogether. Which brings us to…
Dunmore Head
Arguably one of the most photographed spots on the drive. After parking, you’ll see a fence and a foot path up the steep embankment on the right. It takes a little bit of maneuvering so I was very surprised to see some old people ahead of me with walking sticks. But steep and slippery aside, the immense amount of sheep shit is where strategy lies. It’s quite a feat to get to the top of the hill without stepping on a landmine.
Once atop, you’ll also realize the hill is much bigger than it looks and the elevation is amazing. You can almost see Michael Skellig in the distance.
Dunquin Pier
Now for the other half of the most well known stops on the Dingle loop. As far as photo ops go, this one is an absolute gem. But that’s about all it is. Stare out at the ocean, take a few snaps but by now, you’re getting tired of looking at the same thing on every stop, unless you’re not a psycho like me.
Clougher Head
This is a great vantage point of the bay and even has binoculars for whale sightings. I actually really loved this spot, maybe the most out of the entire drive.
The Misses
Beehive Huts
This was a miss for me. Before you reach the cross, the beehive huts are on your right above the road. They are round stone huts dating back from the 8th to 12th century AD. They might have housed monks, or pagans, or aliens. No one really knows. The owner of the land charges a few euros to tour them.
Gallarus Oratory
Again, I’m probably being a dick here, but it’s a small stone house, just like the beehive huts, but square. They know just as little about it, who built it, and what it was used for.