MAUI
Road to Hana
The Basics
The Road to Hana is a loop around the eastern side of Maui, usually going in the clockwise direction because the narrowness of the roads and the general direction of tourists. There is a lot of discussion about the right way to do this trek, which I will discuss, including things worth seeing, things worth skipping, and why the trip is considered particularly harrowing.
Here are some important facts I didn’t know before I drove the Road to Hana:
Your phone is not going to have service at any point, including GPS. So while you may have pinned the things you want to see, your map will no longer be tracking your location. Be prepared to do this the old fashioned way, with mile markers or a map.
No matter who tells you to go the opposite direction, because traffic will be lighter, is an asshole. Do not drive the opposite direction! If you don’t want to deal with the crowds and cars, leave earlier.
Be respectful and mindful that locals live in these places so give them right of way, pull over so they can pass, and don’t park where you’re not supposed to.
LEAVE EARLY. There’s no such thing as too early on Hana Highway. You want to be able to park at these places and enjoy yourself, and more than absolute anything, you want to beat the tour buses, going 10 miles an hour and packed full of people.
Mile Markers
Let’s be completely transparent: if you do not use a GPS guide, a map, or track your miles, you will miss things worth seeing. You can drop a pin wherever you want, but once you’re out of range, you will be fucked. This is a promise. Also know that you’ll be surrounded by dense forest and no street signs. It’s not like you’re going to be following Google Maps down Broadway.
It was easiest for me to reset my mileage after each site so I’ll hit the high points below for you, but I can’t stress enough that it is worth the paltry amount to pay and download the Shaka Guide. Even the locals swear by it. In retrospect, I absolutely should have and regret it every time I talk about my trip.
Paia Town
This is officially where your journey on the Road to Hana begins. Paia town is a super cute little surfer town to check out if you have the time. This is also where the world famous Mama’s Fishhouse is located (but you need a reservation six months in advance). I would stop off and pick up the necessities. For me that’s beer and chips, but for you that might be actual sustenance. Depends on whether you’re doing a long day or staying overnight in Hana, which is what I chose. More on that later.
There’s a killer little gourmet market there called Mana Foods. It’s in the center of town right before you turn onto Hana Hwy. This is where I set my odometer to 0.
Ho’okipa Lookout and Beach - 1.0 mile
As soon as you’re leaving Paia town, this incredible beach is going to be on your left. Because of traffic, a left turn will be difficult, and even more difficult to pull back out of. As for the lookout, it isn’t anything special and, in my opinion, you’re wasting precious time.
The beach is amazing and a great place to watch surfers in the morning and see beached turtles in the afternoon.
Not going to lie, I didn’t go. People rave about it and say it’s totally worth the stop with long standing manicured trees and exotic plants everywhere.
Garden of Eden Arboretum - 8.6 miles
Twin Falls - 9.9 miles
Twin Falls is your first set of waterfalls on the Hana loop. Again, you want to leave early so you can park in this tiny lot. It will cost you $10. The first falls aren’t anything special but they’re nice to look at. The second set, about 3/4 mile up, is substantially better. While not crazy tall, the pool size is nice to dip in. Take advantage. I went during rainy season and skipped the dip only to find out that the other pools up ahead are not safe for swimming. Major bummer.
Honomanu Bay - 3.6 miles
Unfortunately Honomanu Bay is super easy to miss. As you’re coming up the curve, there will be a sloped path with no sign on the left side of the road. There’s room on the right for about four cars to park. I parked and walked down to the beach, but I can say with all honesty that if you’re traveling in dry season, a midsize crossover will get you down there and there’s room to turn around. In hindsight, I should have driven. The walk isn’t long but it’s laborious. The sand is black and the outlet is rough, but it’s nice to stop and watch the surfers.
Halfway to Hana Sign - 3.7 miles
The Halfway to Hana stop is a great opportunity to get something to eat and drink, stretch your legs, or go to the bathroom. These pull offs are few and far between and only getting slimmer from here. If you’re not starving to death, get your food to go so you can enjoy it at the next stop…
Wailua Valley State Park - 1.6 miles
The pull off for Wailua Valley State Park is going to be on your right. It looks like a tiny circle and at first you can’t even tell it’s a parking lot. It has three parking spaces, one of which is handicapped (why I don’t know because it’s not ADA friendly). The walkway is to the right. At the top there is a view of the Wailua and Ke’anae Valley in either direction. There’s also a picnic bench to sit at.
When you get back to the car, you might notice a little trail heading down. It’s an interesting story where it leads and before you decide to traipse off into the rainforest, read more about it here.
Upper Waikani Falls - 0.6 miles
This picture was taken while driving across a bridge, in motion, with one hand. Why? Because I couldn’t sop. You’ll come around a curve and see a little commotion, people parked haphazardly on the street blocking the road. While these waterfalls are magical and amazing, there is no designated area to pull off until after the bridge up a ways, and it is meager at best. Another lessen in leave early. If you can’t park somewhere safely, admire it from the car and move on.
Wailua Iki Falls - 1.7 miles
Wailua Iki Falls is one of the most overlooked set of waterfalls on the trek. Right after Wailua, the turnoff is on the right with a yellow sign posted. Only 1.5 miles roundtrip, this is accessed by a hunting road. There is a “no trespassing” sign posted by locals, but you are allowed legally to hike up. The smaller waterfall on top is easily accessed for swimming while the much larger pool at the bottom requires some strategic climbing and is not recommended.
Pua’a Kaa Falls has a public rest stop, for those of you that didn’t listen to my advice, that can be found on the left side of the road. Across the road is a small but very accessible waterfall with a pool to dip in. It isn’t one of the major stops so it won’t be packed with people.
Pua’a Kaa Falls - 1.5 miles
Hanawi Falls - 2.0 miles
This bad boy can be found at Mile Marker 24, important because if you’re using Apple Maps, Hanawi Falls is listed in a completely different place about six miles away. Viewing it is easiest from your car when passing over by bridge. This rock face is quite dangerous and climbing is prohibited. No swimming opportunity here unfortunately.
Coconut Glen’s - 3.0 miles
Not gonna lie, I thought this Coconut Glen’s thing was just another fad. It’s in the middle of nowhere. Then there’s the ridiculously long lines. But I got there right when they opened so the wait was minimal. Definitely worth it if you’ve got the time to spare, and you do because you’re on fucking vacation!
Hana Lave Tube - 4.0 miles
Have you ever wanted to walk below the surface of the Earth in a huge tunnel hollowed out by lava? Then it’s your lucky day because the Hana Lava Tube’s self guided tour is only $12 and is surprisingly cool. Don’t worry if you get a little claustrophobic; these tunnels are huge inside.
Wai’anapanapa State Park - 1.9 miles
Wai’anapanapa is the official black sand beach, and while there are other black-ish sand beaches, this is the one. You’ll see a road to turn down on the left side of the highway. Drive down through a suburb for about a mile until you get to the gate where a park worker will scan your reservation.
Personally I wasn’t terribly wowed by it. It is for viewing, doing a little light hiking, and then leaving. In fact, I could have skipped it completely and been fine. For more information on the beach and how reservations work, check out my Maui Beach page.
Hana Town - 2.3 miles
You made it! I know that was a super long trek and if you did half the adventures listed, I know you’re exhausted. There’s tons more to see on the back side of the loop so hopefully you’ve decided to stay overnight. Hana is a sleepy little town but has some amazing lodgings and eateries.
Kaihalulu Red Sand Beach - (in Hana)
Kaihalulu beach is a bit of a secret because it is rather controversial. The path requires some sketchy maneuvering through a field along a fence line, traversing some lava rocks and some tight paths. I’ve read a lot of places that this beach is very crowded, but I visited around 8am and was the only person there.
Because I don’t necessarily agree with handing out the instructions to getting there, more info can be found in my blog if you’re up to finding it for yourself.
*Waioka Pond did not make the list for multiple reasons. Here’s some info in case you’ve read about how wonderful it is without all the facts.
Wailua Falls - 7.3 miles
Although you may be burnt out on waterfalls by now, you only have one left after this. Take your time and enjoy it. Leaving Hana, Wailua Falls is just beyond a bridge off the main highway. You can’t miss it standing at over 80 feet tall. There are plenty of places to park on the left side just past the bridge. Do yourself a favor and take a dip in water. It is extremely accessible from the road and the terrain is easy to traverse.
Waimoku Falls - 2.8 miles
Ok friends. This is the last big trek on your voyage so I hope you’re well rested. Waimoka Falls is a hell of a hike and easily the toughest of the Hana Highway waterfalls but worth the effort. Pipiwai Trail is found inside Haleakala National Park and if you already did the sunrise reservation like I told you to, you can park for free.
From the visitor’s center, take the Kuloa Point Trail down to the beach where the Oh’eo Gulch opens up to the sea. When you look back, you can see The Seven Sacred pools. Follow the trail up past the bridge and into the the forest. You will pass the Falls at Makahiku. You’ll take a walk past the banyan tree and through the bamboo forest before you finally come to Waimoku Falls.
The entire feat takes around 3 hours and spans 5 miles. It’s fairly challenging. It’s muddy and slippery in combination with huge tree roots and jagged rocks. The path is packed full of people as it is probably the most famous and well traveled route on the Road to Hana.
Why they call it “Divorce Drive”
Up until this point, I couldn’t see the big deal. I heard so much about how scary and wild the drive was, but save for a few bridges I yielded at, it seemed like a bunch of cars all traveling to the same destinations.
Insert LOL here.
After you leave Haleakala, you’ll notice things change considerably. You will then be driving on muddy unpaved roads where landslides are common. There is no way to squeeze past another vehicle so someone will be reversing in some pretty tight spots. It’s not that wild for a seasoned driver with depth perception, but I can honestly say I don’t know that many people that are skilled drivers.
If you don’t die on that ~10 miles of road, everything else is a breeze. You’re out on the open paved road all the way to Kula, with black lava fields and beautiful blue seas as far the eye can see.