DEATH VALLEY

Arguably one of the most popular attractions in Death Valley and if you’ve already driven Mustard Canyon, then you know what absolute magic is yet to come. A nine mile drive through some of the most beautifully colorful hills you’ve ever laid eyes on, like cotton candy threw up and California paved a road right through it. The biggest attraction is obviously going to be Artist’s Palette, a dense outcropping of hills viewable by the Artist’s Palette overlook, but what most don’t know is that the real secret is the hidden stops and spots along the way that are absolutely magical as well, and far less popular.

Before You Go

The first time I drove Artists Drive, I really didn’t know what the fuck I was doing. This is a one way road, so you’re simply one of many just following the asshole in front of you, just like real life. However, if all you do is play follow-the-leader from one parking lot to the other, you’re going to miss A LOT. Don’t be afraid to take your time. If someone's all over your ass, pull off to the side and let them pass; it’s their loss. You can walk out, onto, or over any part of the park that you like and that includes Artists Drive so if you can find a spot to park off the main road, throw that bitch in park and go explore!

Be advised if you’re trailering - vehicles over 25 feet are prohibited. The canyon has some pretty tight squeezes and wild turns that even seemed precarious in my one ton truck so pay attention to the road signs and use caution. I’d also suggest slowing it down for two reasons: 1. Those turns come up quick and some even require an almost dead stop to maneuver and 2. It’s fucking pretty! Why not enjoy it and take it all in rather than racing from one attraction to another?

The best time to see the colors in the rocks is at sunset and during golden hour or on a cloudy day. I’ve read a lot of conflicting info about this, including that the best time to visit is when the sun is brightest, this is not the case as all that light washes the color out. Alternately, as the sun moves through the sky, it casts shadows, especially as it’s going down, which make photographing this particular landscape very difficult. You can clearly see from my gallery below how the sun’s position changed the aperture of the photo, so beware.

Getting There

If you’re traveling south on Badwater Rd., you’ll come up to the Artists Drive exit first, just after Desolation Canyon. The entrance is another three miles down on the left hand sign. There is a street sign announcing the turn so you shouldn’t miss it. If you get to Devil’s Gold Course, you’ve gone too far.

STOP #1

First overlook on Artists Drive, Death Valley National Park

After a few twists and turns, the hills will start to color up as you come to your first stop along the way. There will be parking spots off to the right leading up to an overlook of Badwater Basin. The little hill is pretty steep and I was definitely winded by the time I got up there.

It’s an ok stop to get a feel for the trail and check the surrounding area out, but don’t get too invested. I felt like the view behind of the road coming up to the parking lot was better than the viewpoint, but hey, just my opinion (spot my white truck on the bottom left side for scale).

View of car port at first stop on Artists Drive, Death Valley National Park

OPTIONAL STOP #2

After you clear the straight stretch of road from this overlook, there will be a hairpin turn. The first time I did this drive, I wish I would’ve pulled over and taken photos. The view of the hills all the way down to Artists Palette are visible, and it really is an incredible view not afforded from any other spot on the drive. There’s no official turn-off so if you decide to stop, take caution. Park in a obvious area where you can stop. Make sure that oncoming traffic from behind will be able to spot your vehicle after the turn. Don’t be the stupid fuck that parked on a turn and got their rental car smashed to shit because the guy behind you didn’t slow down, or worse!

OPTIONAL STOP #3

After another turn, there will be a deep dip in the road followed by an incline and a sharp turned, marked by a road sign. In this dip, there is parking both to your left and right. However, the area to the right affords the luxury of pulling all the way in and is not visible to other cars from the street. A win win!

From this parking spot, you can access a slot canyon into the back of Artists Drive. I don’t know how far it goes but after you scramble up the first set of rocks (which look like they go absolutely nowhere), the canyon widens up and becomes pretty substantial. I only went a few hundred feet as I was by myself but I’m sure it goes much deeper.

I feel like as much as you should already know this, I should say it anyway. Slot canyons are formed from water, generally torrential flooding. If it has been a wet season or there are storm clouds in the horizon, take caution.

STOP #4: ARTIST’S PALETTE OVERLOOK

Now that you can see Artists Palette, which is on the right hand sign, you’ll inevitably see a bunch of poeple parking off to the right and getting out. You can do this if you want to see the hills from the street view or just want to take a pic real quick. But do not get confused that this is the official viewing area. It is not.

STOP #5: ARTIST’S PALETTE

If you kept driving, the road descends in between the rocks and there is a sharp right turn. Take this turn and follow it up a couple hundred yards. You’ll find a small parking lot with public restroom and informational placard for Artists Palette. This is also where you can access the hills if you’re interested in exploring around the area.

A word of advise - be careful crawling around. The ground is brittle and the texture makes slipping and falling very easy. I was incredibly careful and wearing brand new hiking boots and still managed to eat shit more than once, taking out a whole elbow and knee but preserving my telephoto lens.

If you’re not too tired or burnt out from all the chaos of Artists Drive, I’m of the particular opinion that some of the best photography spots come after Artists Palette. Each time I leave, I think to myself Damn, those are some great shots to take! The colors toward the end of the canyon seem especially more concentrated and the steep angles, as you can see from the increasingly windy road, makes for less light and dark occurences. This allows your camera to adjust to the lack of light and doesn’t wash the color in the portrait out.

There’s lots to discover out there so do yourself a favor, take your time, and really explore this gem.