A Trek to Taos Pueblo

Travel

Sep 29

NEW MEXICO

70 miles north of Santa Fe
120 Veterans Hwy, Taos, NM 87571
Designated parking lot directly off Rotten Tree Rd is free.
The website says $25 but when I got there it was $29 per person, $22 for student/military/senior
The pueblo is open from 8 - 4:30pm daily unless tribal rituals are scheduled
Guided tours leave every 15 minutes
The pueblo is pet friendly so long as your dog is leashed
There isn't much to see as most of the property is cordoned off

Before I ever left for New Mexico, Taos was pinned on my maps as an interest point. While researching for things to do in the Santa Fe area, Taos kept coming up as an optional day trip. I went to Pinterest and the official Taos Pueblo website and was inundated with beautiful photos of huge adobe structures with snow capped peaks in the distance. I was sold, no further research required. Unfortunately the time I did have in Santa Fe was relegated to my trailer as the truck was non-operational, then hooking up the trailer to the Jemez Mountains. I was now an additional hour from Taos and just couldn’t justify driving two and a half hours for one thing. But it ate away at me and of course I said to myself you’ve already come the 1,000 miles, whats a few more. I hymned and hawed about it for days, finally resigning to my fate and deciding to make the trek.

What Is Taos Pueblo?

The adobe buildings you’ll find on the pueblo are ancient homes of the Taos people dating back 1000 years, having been continuously lived in generation after generation. There are two main buildings, Hlauuma (North House) and Hlaukwima (South House). Built entirely of adobe and timber, each unit is built next to or on top of another unit much like condos. The ones on top can only be accessed through climbing a ladder. There is no electricity or runnings water anywhere on the pueblo per tradition.

Before You Go

This place is a long trek through miles of canyonland. Give yourself enough time to stop and check out some of the cool spots alone the way such as the Puye Cliff Dwellings, Black Mesa Winery, and the Church of San Francisco de Asis then venture out to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. The gorge was so spectacular that I did this drive twice!

There are not too many food options on the way so it wouldn’t be a bad idea to pack a lunch. If you’re planning to get something in town, Taos Mesa Brewing is awesome and literally just a couple miles from the Gorge Bridge.

Bring cash. Once you’re onto the pueblo, you’ll see villagers selling food items, crafts, and what-nots and they only accept cold, hard cash.

Getting There

The drive out to Taos isn’t a short one. About 70 miles north of Santa Fe, this drive is around an hour and a half. But beware, much of the drive is through reservation land and they are just begging to pull your ass over for speeding. When I went, there was a section of highway that had reduced speeds through a construction zone that lasted damn near half the drive.

The drive is incredibly scenic, winding its way up the mountain right next to the Colorado River. When you’re almost to Taos, you’ll see the Rio Grande Gorge just north. It is an absolutely incredible sight the first time you see it.

The Pueblo

As you near the pueblo, there will be a security outpost indicating you where to park. The ticket booth is directly across the road. The booth will give you a map that acts as your ticket. If you’re interested in a guided tour, head over to the information buildings where tours leave every 15 minutes.

Once you get into the pueblo, you’ll soon realize that the only area you’re allowed to go into is the main plaza between the Hlauuma and the Hlaukwima. Most of the alley ways and streets have blockades for the non-residents. Out in the square you’ll find villagers selling food and crafts. You are encouraged to buy some things while you’re there. Feel free to walk the perimeter of the square and check out the stalls but do not climb any of the ladders or enter a home that is not labeled as an outpost.

San Geronimo Church

Taos received its first attempt at colonization by the Spaniards in 1598. Construction of it’s first mission was underway by 1627 but relations between the priests and the Taos were strained and by 1640 the first church was burned to the ground. The contempt continued between Taos and the Spaniards another 80 years until a church was finally established in 1726 and stood until 1846.

Eventually another conflict began as Americans descended on the area and tried to annex the land. The Taos Indians and Mexicans fought back in what would come to be known as the Mexican-American War and took refuge in the church. The adobe of San Geronimo proved to be too tough for cannon fires, the balls lodging into the thick walls, and so the Americans took to burning the roof and sacking the town. What remains are fragments of the original building and a portion of the bell tower scattered amongst numerous gravesites. The area is off limits to visitors but can be viewed from the parking lot.

The final San Geronimo Church was built in 1850 and is just a few hundred yards south. While visitors are more than welcome to go inside, no photos are permitted.